Wednesday at the Kotel Masorti

I noticed this sign on my walk along Rechov Rambam. What do you suppose they are tying to tell me?


I got up early this AM as we had shacharit at the Kotel Masorti. Walking through the quiet, cool streets of the early morning felt like a privilege that I do not know how I ever earned.The southern end of the Western Wall is a place where egalitarn minyanim are held. The Masorti movement was granted this place of its own from the government afte suffering countless indignities while trying to pray in a Conservative minyan at the Western Wall. It is located at the Robinson Arch which is still on the west wall of the Temple Mount. During davening we heard construction and shouting by Arab working doing unauthorized construction on the Temple Mount. Most of us know what happens anytime Israel tries to do even the simplest work in the area. Interestingly, this Arab project, without the authorization of the Antiquities Authority, involves extensive digging at this rich historical site. Israel never attempted to dig there so as not to disturb what is historically the site of the Second and the First Temple. The Arabs are wantonly digging and instead of following established archeological practices, are just tossing what they dig up into the dump. Some of the students and youth at the Fuchsberg Center have been sifting through the debris and have found artifacts. Unfortunately wighout systematic uncovering of the finds, dating and identifying them is next to impossible.

Here is a picture of the Kotel Masorti and the elevated pathway seperating it from the traditional Western Wall:

We had a very inspirational service led by two student cantors who are in our classes. Here is a picture of Rabbi and Sharon Astor:

After returning to the Fuchsberg Center it was back to work. This Ulpan class is the most challenging activity I have done in years. I find it both exciting and exhausting. Amazingly, afte only one week, I am feeling much more fluent and am starting to be able to understand conversations that I hear on the street.

At lunch we had a special speaker on Zionism. It was Dr. Amy Hall-Shevitz, American Jewish University. Her topic was America’s Historical Relationship with Israel. We explored differing views of Zionism in Israel and the diaspora.

Rabbi Goldfarb's tefillah class concentrated on the P'sukei D'zimrah. We talked about the reasons that they are included in the service and their structure. Although I have, usually sleepily, said this part of the service, I never noticed that it begins with a bracha, Baruch She'amar and ends with another one, Yishtabach.



Instead of halacha, I chose to go on a walking tour to the Italian Synagogue. Pictures were not permitted inside but I do have one of the entrance:





As you can see from the sign, it is both a synagogue and a museum. The building was originally a Christian school and later a public school. The maple wood sanctuary with rococo style ark was originally built in the 1700s in a town north of Venice. In 1951 it was disassembled and moved to Israel. It is actively used and retains the Italian nusach whic is related to the original Yerushalmi nusach and not the one used today. The museum had a number of artifacts relating to the lives of the Italian Jews including many ketuboth and the elaborately decorated wall panels of a sukah which had painings of Moses on Mt. Sinai and the Hebrews dancing at the Reed Sea. I noticed on the ketubot that many of the wedding took place on Friday. I thought that it was Thursday night but was told that it was popular to hold weddings on Friday so as to combine the wedding dinner with Shabbat dinner as it was too expensive to serve meat twice in one week.

After I got home I tried another walking adventure. My landlord revealed to me that the apartment is a short walk to the Shook --if you know the little alley that serves as a shortcut. I had a great time looking and shopping:

Although I didn't buy any of these lovely dagim, I did fill my backpack with a few snacks and supplies. This place really defies description and is a multisensory experience worth the price of the plane ticket. Next time I go, I will bring the rolling shopping basket that came with the apartment. I remember being there a few years ago and it hasn't changed a bit.

On this trip I did a little favor for a friend of the Schwells and brought a package for Arlene who lives just outside Jerusalem on a moshav. Tonight she came to pick it up and we had a nice conversation. Israelis, while sometimes seemingly cold, are some of the warmest, loving people I know. I am constantly seeing little acts of kindness between even complete strangers, on the bus, on the street, and in stores. I have been here a week and cannot believe how quickly the time has passed.