Lost my phone in the market

Roz had most of the fun today while I was in school.
First she was at the Kotel attempting to take the Tunnel tour. Her guide changed the appointment and she had to come back later. Meantime, since it was Thursday, the Kotel was hopping with Bar Mitzvoth.




One tradition has the family escorting the bar mitzvah under a chupah.


After watching the Bar Mitzvoth, she wandered away and wound up on the Temple Mount.


Interestingly, while she was wandering around lost in the Arab quarter, we were getting a security warning about staying away from unguarded areas.

She then went to Ein Kerem for a tour of the Hadassah Hospital.


She finally got back to the Kotel for the Tunnel tour. Below is the base of the Western Wall.



I volunteered to do the Haftarah at the shul at the Fuchsberg Center. By the way, I joined this shul as an overseas member. I was talking to the secretary in the office, a South African olah, and she noted that their membership is small and growing smaller. As few Masorti Jews as there are in Israel, not too many can afford to live near the Fuchsberg which is in a very expensive area. She said that they depend heavily on overseas memberships so I joined. Anyway, the Rabbi wanted to make sure I could do a decent job so he asked me to chant a few lines from the haftarah which I must have done well enough.

In the afternoon we did a midrash that looked at the language God used when He told Abraham to sacrifice Isaac. Instead of just saying "Isaac", He says "Your son, your only son, the one you love, Isaac." The midrash suggests that God is building up the love that Abraham has for Isaac to make the test more difficult. This is much like if I wanted to test my friendship with someone by asking to borrow their car. Instead of just asking for the car, I might say "Can I borrow your favorite car, the one that has not a single dent, the one you paid so much money for... ." Another darshan compares the request to the one God made earlier when he told Abraham to leave Ur Kasdin. He told him to leave his land, his birthplace, and his father's house. The parallel language suggests a similar structure to the command. It is interesting to note that God uses the word "Please" when he asks Abraham to sacrifice Isaac. It is suggested that by saying "Please" God is making a request which Abraham could refuse. God also gives Abraham a three day trip during which Abraham might change his mind about the sacrifice. There are also numerous plays on the word "Moriiah," the land Abraham is sent to to make the sacrifice. These word plays make reference to Torah and Jerusalem.

Instead of going to the nursing home today, I attended Rav Lewis' parshat ha'shavua shiur. He gave a brilliant explanation of the laws ragarding murder, manslaughter, and the cities of refuge.

After class, I went over to the Machaneh Yehudah shuk for a few groceries. While I was there, I apparently lost my cell phone. Fortunately I bought the insurance so thqat softened the blow. It also gave us an excuse to take a trip to Guvat Shaul to visit the Talk 'n Save folks to get a new phone. On the way back, we had the cab drop us off at Ben Yehudah Street for a little shopping.

Tomorrow there is no school. Check back to read what happens.

Concert and a trip to the desert

On Tuesday, we took a walk from the Fuchsburg Center to the Western Wall. Although it was quite hot, it was an enjoyable walk. At the Wall, we prayed and Roz distributed some of the charity that friends gave her to bring to Israel.

At night after school Roz and I went out to a little restaurant next to the Great Synagogue for a quick supper. After that we walked back to the apartment to change and went out to the Israel Museum for a concert by the group Givatron. This group of about 14 singers ranged i age from middle age to people who were in their twenties when the State of Israel was founded. There were a few thousand Givatron fans there. I had found out earlier that my friend Yossie Pinhasi was going to be there. We asked him to save us some seats. He called ans said we would be in the front row. When we arrived, moments before the show was to start, the guards would not let us into the front. Suddenly, Yossie ran up to them saying that these are my friends from the States, you must let them in, and so they did. The show was great. Many of the songs were familiar to the Israelis in the audience. After the show, we went to a restaurant on King George for coffee. On the way, we met a friend of Yossie's who is the deputy attorney general of Israel. It seems like everyone knows eachother here.

Today, we were privileged to hear Rabbi Joel Roth of the RA Law Committee speak on halacha and the Conservative movement. I mentioned to him that I felt that when we describe Conservative Jews as between Orthodox and Reform, we are doing ourselves a disservice. He agreed.

I stayed for a part of Rabbi Goldfarb's class on tefillah. Today we were discussing the brachot of the amidah.

I left early to meet up with Roz and we were picked up by a tour guide who took us for a Jeep

trip into the Judean Desert. This was quite a trip indeed. We bounced along what passed for roads up hills and along cliffs.

On one of our first stops, we met Abdullan and his donkey. Abdullah is mainly in the sheep business but he was gracious enougn to let Roz take a ride.

We went up the mountain that is believed to be the one from which the kohein gadol tossed the sacrificial goat in the Yom Kippur ritual. From here one can see the Dead Sea and all the way into Jordon.

Here is Roz drawing water from a desert well. Our guide suggested that she was like Rivka who drew water for Eliezer and later became the wife of Isaac.

In a desert town, ther e is a spring where water pours from a mountain all year long. Local families gather here to take a dip and have a picnic. I found it to be rather untidy with lots of litter. There was also a sign forbidding swimming. It did not seem to stop anyone though.

On the way out, there was an old tank on the side of the road to play with.

Finally, here's Roz test driving the ship of the desert. Behind the princely mount is not the camel driver but our tour guide and Jeep driver, Sholem.

Later at night we went out for a Jerusalem grill at a little restaurant off of Agrippas St near the Machane Yehuda market.

Roz arrives

In Ulpan this morning we translated a song by Hanoch Levine. He was a very angrry writer who was not afraid to use sarcasm. The lyrics bitterly described a non-caring Israeli society. Ironically the music, sung by Chava Alberstein, were very upbeat.
I left Ulpan a little early and cut my afternoon classes for an Egged experience. I took a cab to the central bus station and a bus to Tel Aviv. The Jerusalem station, similar to the one in Tel Aviv but a little cleaner and newer, is within an enormous shopping mall. Shopping malls in Israel are called kanyon. A combination of the word for to buy and "canyon." At the Tel Aviv station I met up with Shlomo Cohen. He is now retired from teaching High School Hebrew and dividing his time between his coffee business and chazzanut. He is also learning to sing opera and sang Granada for me in his living room.
The reason I went to Tel Aviv was to meet Roz who arrived 2 and a half hours late but none the worse for wear. She took a cab to Shlomo's apartment and then we all went out for a walk and a little dinner. Shlomo showed us around his neighborhood and drove us back to Jerusalem. He pointed out the German-style architechture of Tel Aviv that was brought here by pre-WW II immigrants to Israel. We also drove along the beach and through the old city of Jaffa.
I never really enjoyed Tel Aviv as it seems more like any European city and not particularly Israeli. Shlomo said it was very hard to find kosher restaurants. He does like the town, though. He walks early in the morning to the beach and excercises on the gym equipment that is there for anyone to use. He has his coffee roasting business in the Tel Aviv shuk. He sells custom roasted and ground coffees. Now that he is retired from teaching, he is considering opening up a coffee shop too.

Sunday, actually a little chilly

In Ulpan today we read a satire by Hanoch Levine. He is an Israeli playwright known for his sarcasm. His style of writing has made him a controversial figure. He does not seem to be afraid to violate the Israeli version of PC.
I brought my lunch from home and sat on a shaded balcony on the grounds of the Fuchsberg Center. After eating, I stretched out for 20 minutes of relaxation. It occured to me that if I were at home and was asked where I would most like to be, this would be it. I consider myself very lucky.
We learned a midrash about the Akeida that, by using a pair of similar sounding words, associated the test of Abraham with a flag mentioned in the Psalms. As a result, Abraham's response becomes a verification of the judgement of God in choosing Abraham and furthermore for all God's judgement. In another similar midrash, using the test of Daniel, we are led to understand that even though we could never take the same test that Abraham did, we are tested often in everyday life by withstanding the temptations to violate the commandments. When we choose to live according to Torah, we communicate the truth of God to the nations as an ensign on a ship sends out a signal.
Sally Klein-Katz's class on teaching Israel continued to explore ways we can bring Jews closer to Israel. It is generally agreed that depending on the Holocaust and depicting Israel as a victim are not successful anymore. We discssed other programs such as the shlichim, and the many programs that get youth to visit Israel. The better programs seem to be the ones that put Israelis in tough with diaspora Jews.
After class we had another meeting of the Legacyy Heritage fellows. Today we were supposed to discuss the use of Hebrew to increase interest in Israel. None of us really thought it would work although anyone who had participated in such programs enjoyed them. We felt that people who wre willing to try to learn Hebrew are already inclined towards Israel. My group included a retired dentist who is now a synagogue administrator in Minnesota. His synagogue is large and very active. Many of his members visit Israel regularly. A few years ago they ran a trip during Passover.
This town does something to you. I found a box of left over sandwiches in the Beit Midrash from a lunch program today. They were headed for the pach ashpa (trash can). I took one and thought of the frail, tiny, woman who sits on the shaded side of King George St begging for coins. Before our afternoon meeting, I went down the street, found her and gave it to her with a few shekels. I don't know who felt better about it afterwards.

The Great Synagogue

I attended Shabbat services today at the Great Synagogue. I surely lives up to its name.
Very near the Fuchsberg Center, this large building is both synagogue and museum. The walls of the main lobby are lined with shocases displaying thousands of mezzuzoth. They vary in size, material, and design.
Upstairs the main sanctuary is round and several stories high with a women's section above. There are some stained glass windows above the ark and towards the rear.
The service is lead by a magnificent cantor and a men's choir. They combined to produce an awesome experience. The singing was worthy of any concert. Today was Shabbat mevorchim Av and the Rosh Chodesh bentshing was a pleasure to hear.
Unlike many orthodox synagogues that I have been to, they do not seem to mind repeating a few words during the davening for musical purposes. The ending of the Rosh Chodesh bentshing was also a little different than I am used to. Notably too, they said Anim Zemirot just before taking out the Torah rather than at the end of Musaf.
During the afternoon I took a well needed Shabat nap. In the evening I took a walk to Ben Yehudah St. When I got there at about 9:00 it was pretty quiet. Soon buses lined up as far as the eye could see bringing young people who filedl the street. There was dancing, music, and lots of crowding. When I left at nearly 11:00 the party was just beginning.
I sensed a contrast between the mostly American youth who were in the street acting silly and the Israelis, not much older, working in the stores and wearing army uniforms carrying rifles.

Jerusalem in miniature

No classes today, Friday. We did have a little bus trip to the Israel Museum, however, to view the model of the city of Jerusalem from Temple times. We were guided by Dr. Rosenbaum.

This model was moved to the museum from it's original location at the Holy Land Hotel. In it's recreated setting it is much easier to view.

It was pointed out that it is probably very inaccurate. There is considerable disagreement about even such major items as the location and size of the Temple. For certain, the locations and nature of the houses is pure speculation. This is a very worthwhile experience as it is, but going with a scholar as we did adds greatly to it all.

Here are a few pictures:

This is roughly where today's Jaffa Gate is. To the right is the so-called Tower of David. It was at one time a monastary and at another a prison but never a home for King David.

If you recall on Wednesday, we had shacharit services at the southern end of the Western Wall which is in the Davidson Archeological Park. At that end of the wall is evidence of what is called Robinson's Arch. in this view of the southern wall around the Temple mount, the recreated arch can be seen extending from the corner with the west wall at the left.

For those of you who have been wondering if I am really in Israel, here are two pictures that include me. In the first one, I am in front of the Dome of the book. The building, which houses Dead Sea Scrolls, is designed to resemble the cover over the jars in which they were found.

Although the museum is closed for major renovations to provide handicapped access, this building remains open.

TheTemple Mount is at my left, viewed from the north.

Shabbat Shalom.

End of week one

This morning I spoke to Shlomo Cohen who lives in Tel Aviv. Those of you from Norwich will recall that he was our High Holiday cantor for a number of years. We have kept in touch. I plan to take off after Ulpan on Monday and take the bus to Tel Aviv to meet with him. Roz arrives that afternoon and he offered to drive us to Jerusalem.

Today at lunch, we had the second meeting of the Legacy Heritage Fellows. We divided into small groups of similarly situated people to talk about solving our mutual problems. We were supposed to discuss the use of sacred texts to increase people's connection with Israel. I was paired with Chanah who lives near Hamburg Germany. She relates that in Germany, synagogues are either Orthodox or Liberal with no significant Conservative representation. Chanah did not feel a part of the Orthodox and when she tried to get the Liberals to read Torah, they asked her to leave. Now she is struggling to create a Conservative synagogue with a small group of older Jews. They have no place to meet and no funds. Interestingly Hebrew literacy is minimal and she meets with resistance when trying to recruit learners. Consequently, she is looking for a transliterated siddur. I suggested that she contact the Federation of Jewish Men's Clubs for their Siddur Hebrew program. If anyone of my readers has a suggestions for her let me know and I will be glad to relay them.

In our midrash class, we discussed a midrash which deals with Abraham's journey out of Ur Kasdim. In the story, a man was traveling and passed a burning building. The man speculated that there must be no acaretaker of the building since it is on fire. The caretakerthen appeared at the top of the building. The traveller is Abraham, the building is the world, and the caretaker is God. Even though this world is on fire, it does not mean that ther is no God. I see this as an allegory for Tikun Olam. Not God but people have the opportunity to put out the fire that is consuming the world.

Speaking of Tikun Olam, this afternoon a group of us went to a nursing home to visit with the residents. One of the students brought an accordian and we sang with the residents and danced for them (well some of us danced). We also had a chance to practice our Hebrew skills. The woman I first sat with was born in Turkey. She also wanted to talk French. I had a surprisingly difficult time shifting code to French but I was able to tell her how my mother used to talk about my barely passing French grades with my H.S. French teacher, Mr. Furman, in Yiddish.

Here we are dancing. Chasha, the accordian player and Cantor from Chicago is seated on the left. Chana, my friend from Germany, is the taller woman standing on the left and Sharon Astor is facing the camera on the right.

I have worked in many nursing homes and found this one to be a bit above average. The residents, as well as the facility, seemed clean and well cared for. I was told that this was a government facility with all or most of the patients on public assistance. As our visit went on, this room full of bubbies got warmer and more lively with singing and clapping from qquite a few.

After I got home, I went back to the Shuk and this time I brought the little wheeled basket that came with my apartment. Now I realize what it was for. As it is Thursday, the pace of things there is a bit more hectic and the crowd a little bigger. I got a little more brave and picked up a few staples and delicacies.

Wednesday at the Kotel Masorti

I noticed this sign on my walk along Rechov Rambam. What do you suppose they are tying to tell me?


I got up early this AM as we had shacharit at the Kotel Masorti. Walking through the quiet, cool streets of the early morning felt like a privilege that I do not know how I ever earned.The southern end of the Western Wall is a place where egalitarn minyanim are held. The Masorti movement was granted this place of its own from the government afte suffering countless indignities while trying to pray in a Conservative minyan at the Western Wall. It is located at the Robinson Arch which is still on the west wall of the Temple Mount. During davening we heard construction and shouting by Arab working doing unauthorized construction on the Temple Mount. Most of us know what happens anytime Israel tries to do even the simplest work in the area. Interestingly, this Arab project, without the authorization of the Antiquities Authority, involves extensive digging at this rich historical site. Israel never attempted to dig there so as not to disturb what is historically the site of the Second and the First Temple. The Arabs are wantonly digging and instead of following established archeological practices, are just tossing what they dig up into the dump. Some of the students and youth at the Fuchsberg Center have been sifting through the debris and have found artifacts. Unfortunately wighout systematic uncovering of the finds, dating and identifying them is next to impossible.

Here is a picture of the Kotel Masorti and the elevated pathway seperating it from the traditional Western Wall:

We had a very inspirational service led by two student cantors who are in our classes. Here is a picture of Rabbi and Sharon Astor:

After returning to the Fuchsberg Center it was back to work. This Ulpan class is the most challenging activity I have done in years. I find it both exciting and exhausting. Amazingly, afte only one week, I am feeling much more fluent and am starting to be able to understand conversations that I hear on the street.

At lunch we had a special speaker on Zionism. It was Dr. Amy Hall-Shevitz, American Jewish University. Her topic was America’s Historical Relationship with Israel. We explored differing views of Zionism in Israel and the diaspora.

Rabbi Goldfarb's tefillah class concentrated on the P'sukei D'zimrah. We talked about the reasons that they are included in the service and their structure. Although I have, usually sleepily, said this part of the service, I never noticed that it begins with a bracha, Baruch She'amar and ends with another one, Yishtabach.



Instead of halacha, I chose to go on a walking tour to the Italian Synagogue. Pictures were not permitted inside but I do have one of the entrance:





As you can see from the sign, it is both a synagogue and a museum. The building was originally a Christian school and later a public school. The maple wood sanctuary with rococo style ark was originally built in the 1700s in a town north of Venice. In 1951 it was disassembled and moved to Israel. It is actively used and retains the Italian nusach whic is related to the original Yerushalmi nusach and not the one used today. The museum had a number of artifacts relating to the lives of the Italian Jews including many ketuboth and the elaborately decorated wall panels of a sukah which had painings of Moses on Mt. Sinai and the Hebrews dancing at the Reed Sea. I noticed on the ketubot that many of the wedding took place on Friday. I thought that it was Thursday night but was told that it was popular to hold weddings on Friday so as to combine the wedding dinner with Shabbat dinner as it was too expensive to serve meat twice in one week.

After I got home I tried another walking adventure. My landlord revealed to me that the apartment is a short walk to the Shook --if you know the little alley that serves as a shortcut. I had a great time looking and shopping:

Although I didn't buy any of these lovely dagim, I did fill my backpack with a few snacks and supplies. This place really defies description and is a multisensory experience worth the price of the plane ticket. Next time I go, I will bring the rolling shopping basket that came with the apartment. I remember being there a few years ago and it hasn't changed a bit.

On this trip I did a little favor for a friend of the Schwells and brought a package for Arlene who lives just outside Jerusalem on a moshav. Tonight she came to pick it up and we had a nice conversation. Israelis, while sometimes seemingly cold, are some of the warmest, loving people I know. I am constantly seeing little acts of kindness between even complete strangers, on the bus, on the street, and in stores. I have been here a week and cannot believe how quickly the time has passed.

First set of pictures

Here are a few pictures. There will be more to come.
Go to:
http://pictures.aol.com/ap/myAlbums.do?includeReceivedAlbums=true&albumId=29675.2292.1216756851163.3

Tuesday --bulldozer driver makes hearts skip a beat

Another intense day in the Ulpan. I have a new feeling for my language delayed students as I realized that they struggle with vocabulary and grammar just like I do. I can see why they would rather be doing something easier and why the work so exhausts and frustrates them.
I am wandering further from my familiar places and today walked to a newly built dairy restaurant for lunch. I don't know what it is but as soon as I come in a place, the staff starts talking English. Maybe it's the hat. Anyway, I enjoyed a bowl of onion soup and an iced coffe. On the way out, I found Sharon and Carl sitting at a table outside so I sat with them for a while and walked back with Sharon.
After Mincha, Rabbi Diamond informed us that a Palestinian bulldozer driver decided to plow into a bus and some other vehicles and injured almost twenty people. It was suggested that we call family back in the US who are just getting up and may be frightened by the news. We were never in any danger although the incidend occurred less than 5 minutes from the Fuchsberg Center. I went out to get a bottle of water later and King George Street was still closed with many police directing traffic on the corner. The biggest danger to us was that they turned off the traffic lights and the little red and green men were unavailable to suggest when it might (just might) be safe to cross the street.
The Midrash class featured the midrash about Abraham smashing his father's idols and later walking out of a furnace. The midrash was written to explain how Abraham's brother Haram died "before [the eyes of] his father.
Our Teaching Israel class continued exploring what makes it easier and harder to bringJewish people closer to this wonderful land.
After classes, I continued to bravely expand my horizons. I decided to find Ben Yehuday street. Sure enough, it was not so difficult to do. I also found out that Ben Yehuda is continuous with Betzalel which connects to Ussishkin with only about a three block walk.

Monday --thats the Second day of the week. Get used to it!

Ulpan is getting a little harder. We are spending lots of time on grammar. Our teacher offered us the opportunity to go to level 2 where there is more basic conversation. I decided to stick with it at level 3.
I had my first Supersal experience today. It is a beautiful supermarket with legendary high prices. No worse, though, than the makolet around the corner from my apartment.
I also found a falafel stand across the street and enjoyed a pretty good lunch.
In the afternoon, Rabbi Goldfarb taught a class on tefillah. He started with the birchat hamazon. We learned that the opening paragraphs are attributed to different people. The second one, about the Exodus to Moshe, the third, about the land of Israel to Joshua, and the third, about the Temple (you know the one that was right down the street from us) to David and Solomon. Also, the original bracha ended with “Yerushalayim, Amen.” Did you ever wonder why the Amen? The next paragraph which is about rejoicing even when times are bad was added later and is halachikly the end of the bracha and all one needs to say.
In our last class today, Rabbi Shlomo Zacharow taught modern halacha. We discussed the mitzvah of redeeming prisoners especially in light of the prisoner trading that Israel does with Hamas. While Jewish law requires redemption of prisoners, many insist that an exorbitant ransom is prohibited because it puts an unfair burden on the community and also encourages more kidnapping. It is stated that the ransom must match the value of the person. You can see how that opens a can of gefilte fish.
At 5:30 we had a meeting of the Legacy Grant students. We will be attempting to maximize the value of out experience by working together in small groups to discuss ways to accomplish our goals with what we gain from the program. The group is very impressive with much experience. We have a number of foreign students including ones from Germany and the Chech Republic.
After the meeting, I decided to attend a Rotary meeting at the Dan Panorama. I walked out to the road and stopped a cab. I think I got the most honest driver in Jerusalem. He refused to take me to the hotel. Pointing behind him he told me just walk that way, in two minutes you will be there. Sure enough I was. The Dan is what used to be the Moriah where I stayed with Roz in 1977 and again with Uncle Sonny in 2000. The West Jerusalem Rotary club has only 19 members. There were about 11 people there but only because the Rotarians bring their wives. They do allow women but have only one as a member. Most of the members are older and the membership has declined severely in the past few years. Cost of the meeting was 60 NIS ($20) for fruit, cheese, crackers, juice, coffee, and cake. There was no lack of warmth and fellowship and I was invited to present my banner and tell about the Norwich Rotary. There was no singing but when I told them about Norwich they invited me to sing. I plan to go back next week and maybe lead them in Yom Huledet Sameach.
So today noticed that my phone did not work. I borrowed one and called Cellcom who offered to deliver one tomorrow or replace it at their offices which were open until midnight. My plan was to take a cab there after Rotary. Rotarians being what they are everywhere, a ride was arranged for me and I was brought to the office in Givat Shaul. On the way I got a great view of the new “string bridge” which was illuminated. It seems a little out of place and dwarfs the Jerusalem stone buildings beside it. The bridge will eliminate congested city traffic and also carry the new light rail.
Cellcom is in a very nice office on the -3 floor. It is run by kippah and tzitzit wearing young men. They handled my problem with efficiency and surprising courtesy and friendliness.
On my trip home I got a Hebrew lesson from my singing cabdriver who just seemed to be so happy to be driving a cab in Jerusalem –as I was to be his passenger. I gave him a 10 shekel tip for the 40 shekel ride –not required but worth it for the education and entertainment.

First day of class

Today was the first day of class and also the 17th of Tammuz. So, the schedule was a bit unusual. We started with some orientation and introductions. After that we went to ouur first classes. Mine is the Ulpan. I was placed in level three which is actually the fourth level as there is an aleph and an aleph plus --it's Isreal, everything is just a little more complicated. My Ulpan teacher is very good. There are 16 students in the class many said they thought they were in too high a level but our teacher said that we will only learn if it is a little difficult. Today we practice conversations and learned about noun-adjective agreement.
After Ulpan, we all went to the Beis Medrash for a shiur by Rabbi Goldfarb on fasting. He quoted a number of sources and discussed minor and major fasts and their meanings for modern Jews. He is a good teacher and I hope he takes the opportunity to teach us often.
We then had mincha which included a very beautiful chanting of the hatarah for fast days.
My next class was on midrash. Rabbi Mordechai Silverman discussed a midrash about Rabbi Akiba which among other things may have been written to convince wives to let their hisbands go off and study while they stay home and raise the children.
My last class of te day proved far more interesting than I imagined, Sally Klein-Katz on Teaching Israel. This class explores people's relationships with Israel and how we can best draw them closer.
On the way home, I managed to recruit the help of Sharon Astor to gang up on the ATM machine and as we had it outnumbered, I finally won.

Hitting the ground running --July 16, 17,18, 19

I arrived in Tel Aviv at 2:30 PM and was met by a friend of a friend who took me to Jerusalem. We found the apartment at 61 Ussishkin St. where I will be staying as of this Friday. We parked the car and walked around the neighborhood. There is a tiny grocery store that seems to have much of what I will need. Then we walked towards Agron St and the Fuchsberg Center. It is about 15 minutes away and very hilly.
I met Esther who runs the office at the Yeshivah and also met Rabbi Goldfarb, the director.
Wednesday and Thursday nights, I am staying with friends Yossie and Sylvie Pinhasi in Ramot. They have a beautiful apartment high on a hill where a cool breeze makes it very comfortable.
With all our walking about I did not get to the Pinhasi’s until 6:00. Yossie invited me to attend a lecture and concert so despite the jet lag, I went along. On our way there, after parking a few blocks away, we passed what must be an old newspaper and magazine stand with the front boarded up. The side door was open and hanging on the door were great hanks of multi-colored shoelaces. Sitting at the door was an ancient fellow who turned out to be a shoemaker. From inside the tiny, crowded, brightly lighted shop could be heard a radio with what I thought was news in Hebrew. This stopped Yossie who went up to talk to the cobbler. As it turns out, it was the Voice of Israel that broadcasts news in Farsi directed towards Iran. Iranians often call the station to talk vent their dissatisfaction with their government.
The event was at a beautiful new cultural center on King George St. called Bet Avichai (www.bac.org.il). This place hosts lectures, art exhibits, and a reading room. The event I attended was about hazzanut. The large theater-style auditorium was filled with cantorial music lovers of all ages. The lecture, and the entire program, were in Hebrew so I did not quite understand everything but I could figure out what they were talking about. There was a professor lecturing and about half a dozen cantors sang –some better than others. But all were very interesting. Most engaging were a pair that did Sephardic music. They did selections of tefillah from Morocco, Turkey, and Syria accompanying themselves on an oude.
Afterwards, Yossie took me on a private tour of the Jewish Agency. He was the engineer who designed the lighting systems that illuminate the exterior as well as the large meeting spaces inside. I am very impressed with his work. The building is very impressive and filled with pictures of Israeli notables. At one time, this building housed the major government office and was the site of many meeting at the formation of the state of Israel.
At 11 o’clock we got back to the Pinhasi’s apartment when I finally got a shower and a great night’s sleep.
I spent Thursday relaxing at the Pinhasi’s while they were at work. Thursday night I attended a wine tasting outside the Israel Museum which is closed for renovation. There were hundreds of different Israeli wines and cheeses to taste and buy. There was also a food booth serving very generous portions. I went with Sylvie as Yossie took his mother to a concert. To get home, we took the bus through downtown Jerusalem. Even that was fun.
Friday was moving day . After picking up some groceries in the tiniest of stores, Yossie took me to Ussishkin St. This upstairs apartment is very nice with everything I could need, even a mirpeset. Interestingly, the water heater is on a timer. You have to start it before you take a shower and set it to turn off after no more than 120 minutes.
Friday night was mincha, kaballat Shabbat, maariv, and a dinner at the Fuchsberg. Services were beautifully led by young men and women. The 200 or so participants sang with spirited harmony to produce a near magical experience. After dinner we sang zemirot and benched. I sat with the Astors who were kind enough to walk me half way back home to make sure I did not miss my street.
Shabbos, I had a rare experience. I went back to Ramot and shul with Yossie. He attends the Beth Aaron synagogue where the Yerushalmi nusach is used. They started at 8 AM and said absolutely every word of the davening aloud. Pesukei d’zimrah were done by members of the congregation sitting around the wall of the round sanctuary. Just before Shochein Ad, a tag team of two cantors took over still saying every word out loud. The singing was enchanting. The Kohanim duchan at both shacharit and mussaf. During the duchaning, sons stood before their fathers and received a blessing much like Friday night. After the child received his blessing, he kissed his father’s hand. There was an auction for aliyoth, all of them including carrying the Torah and the rimonim. Yossie bought me an aliyah and reminded me to bench gomel for my trip which I did. I also bought some mi’sheberachs for my parents, wife, and children. The ba’alei keriah did a flawless job.
At the end of the service, before aleynu, they did the barchu again. Also, they do not stand for kaddish excepet the mourniners who stand for the mourners kaddish.
After shul, we went to visit a member who Yossie noticed was not in shul. We spent about an hour and a half in his back yard talking and enjoying some fruit. Then we went back home for a Shabbat lunch with the Pinhasis, and their children and grandchildren.